Attending Bach Mai‘s Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) was an unforgettable experience. The collection, titled “Invincible Summer,” was more than just a showcase of bold designs. It was a deeply personal and emotional narrative for Bach Mai. From the backstage preparations to the runway itself, each moment felt charged with meaning, artistry, and resilience. It was an honor to capture these moments through my lens, and I’m excited to share the journey. From the quiet intensity of backstage to the grandeur of the runway.
Backstage: The Quiet Energy Before the Show
Backstage at a fashion show is where the magic begins. There is always a palpable energy, where models, stylists, and makeup artists work in synchronized chaos to bring a designer’s vision to life. However, at Bach Mai’s show, there was also a sense of calm focus that reflected the emotional depth of the collection. It was clear that everyone involved understood they were part of something special.
Bach Mai‘s “Invincible Summer” collection was born out of a deeply personal experience. After enduring the loss of his father and navigating one of the most challenging years of his life, he channeled his grief and resilience into his designs. His father’s simple question, “Where is all the color?” after seeing Bach’s earlier collections became the driving force behind the vibrant hues and bold shapes that defined this runway. Each garment in the collection felt like a testament to his emotional journey, emerging from darkness into light, and from loss into strength.
In the backstage setting, I was able to photograph the models as they prepared for their walks. One particularly stunning design was a voluminous pink and coral ensemble, its dramatic sleeves and fluid silhouette creating both a soft and structured presence. The continuous studio lights, diffused through a plastic sheet, illuminated every curve, casting a glow that emphasized the interplay between light and shadow on the fabric.
Similarly, a vibrant red gown with angular draping and a layered tulle hem highlighted Bach Mai’s bold exploration of form and movement. These striking contrasts reinforced the themes of personal resilience and artistic fluidity that echoed throughout the collection. The atmosphere backstage mirrored this balance. Quiet moments of reflection and preparation before stepping into the spotlight, much like Bach’s journey from personal grief to creative triumph.
Rehearsal: Setting the Stage for Elegance
The rehearsal provided an intimate glimpse into the artistry that goes into a runway show. As the models practiced their walks, the designs began to take on a life of their own. Bach Mai’s fusion of mid-century couture influences with the vibrant, modern use of color by architect Luis Barragán was evident in every look. The garments flowed with elegance and strength, showcasing a stunning contrast between soft textures and sharp silhouettes.
During the rehearsal, the models displayed a breathtaking array of styles. There was a strong focus on the interplay between structure and fluidity. One look featured a voluminous red gown paired with a glossy jacket, recalling the glamour of old Hollywood but with a distinctly modern edge. Other designs offered a minimalist, yet bold, approach, such as a sleeveless white top paired with flowing, vivid orange pants, showcasing Bach Mai’s ability to reimagine classic forms with fresh, unexpected color combinations.
WWD aptly described Bach Mai’s Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection as a standout for its visual impact, blending vibrant colors with diverse, inclusive silhouettes that echoed modern elegance. Vogue praised the collection for its emotional and cultural resonance, emphasizing how each look told a story of both personal and collective transformation. The rehearsal was not just about perfecting the movements; it was about bringing the emotion of the designs to life. Each model embodied the story of resilience and invincibility that was central to the collection.
What struck me most during the rehearsal was the careful attention to detail. Every movement was choreographed to highlight the elegance and strength of each design. The models, wearing looks that ranged from bridal-inspired gowns to avant-garde separates, carried themselves with confidence and grace. There was a seamless blend of Eastern and Western influences, with Japanese Bijin-Ga art and modernist touches from artists like James Turrell providing inspiration for the delicate yet powerful designs. It was clear that Bach Mai’s vision was not only rooted in artistic exploration but also in a deep personal narrative of hope and renewal.
The Fashion Show: A Bold Statement on the Runway
When the lights dimmed and the music began, the runway at Bach Mai’s NYFW show came alive. The models stepped onto the runway, embodying a new kind of American glamour. Bold, diverse, and unapologetically inclusive. The show’s vibrant mix of textures, colors, and silhouettes created a visual feast for the audience, each design more captivating than the last.
The designs ranged from structured gowns with cascading layers to more minimalist pieces, like a lilac mini-dress with a striking red neckline that drew attention to both form and movement.
A particularly memorable moment was the grand finale, where a model wore a stunning bridal-inspired gown with a sculptural silhouette, accentuated by the brilliance of nearly $50 million worth of Leviev diamonds. According to Forbes, Leviev’s high-diamond jewelry, styled with 11 of Bach Mai’s designs, added an extra layer of opulence to the runway. The highlight was a $5 million Le Bal necklace, set with 47 carats of diamonds and finished with a 32-carat Fancy Yellow diamond drop, which closed the show on a dazzling note.
Tech entrepreneur Lucy Guo, actor Caylee Cowen, and social influencer Amina Kadyrova graced the event wearing Leviev’s stunning jewelry. Saudi princess and fashion entrepreneur Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz also attended, elegantly adorned in Leviev pieces. Other notable guests included Jessica Wang, Bailey Bass, Tanner Adell, and Maitreyi Ramakrishnan. On the runway, Liza Koshy captivated the audience, showcasing a dazzling Leviev diamond necklace.
Bach Mai’s collaboration with Leviev created a unique synergy between fashion and fine jewelry, adding an unmatched level of luxury to the show. The sparkling diamonds, combined with the fluidity of the fabrics, made the collection feel both ethereal and grounded in strength. The collection celebrated resilience and hope, themes that were reinforced through each look on the runway. Whether it was the bold reds or soft blues, each color palette and fabric choice echoed Bach Mai’s journey of overcoming personal adversity and finding the “invincible summer” within.
Recent reviews have highlighted the significant impact of Bach Mai’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Fashionista praised the designer for showcasing a blend of romanticism and modernity. The Hollywood Reporter noted his homage to classic couture while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion. Additionally, FashionNetwork.com commended Bach Mai for balancing elegance and edge. These insights from industry experts underscore Bach Mai’s growing influence and his commitment to redefining modern luxury in fashion.
The runway show was more than just a showcase of fashion. It was a visual narrative that spoke to the power of transformation. Each design felt like a statement, an ode to the human spirit’s ability to endure and thrive. The models, diverse in every sense of the word, walked with grace and confidence, embodying the inclusivity and modern glamour that Bach Mai has become known for.
Capturing a Story of Resilience and Hope
As a fashion and editorial photographer, my goal is to capture not just the designs, but the stories behind them. Bach Mai‘s “Invincible Summer” made this task both easy and deeply rewarding. From the quiet focus backstage to the meticulous rehearsal and the bold statement on the runway, every moment of this show told a story of resilience, hope, and creative triumph. The collection was a deeply personal reflection of Bach Mai’s journey, transforming his personal loss into a celebration of strength, color, and beauty.
I’m grateful to have been part of this incredible experience, documenting not just the garments, but the emotion, artistry, and storytelling that went into this unforgettable show. Bach Mai’s personal story of finding light amidst darkness was woven into every design, making this one of the most memorable NYFW shows I’ve had the pleasure of photographing. Make sure to seize the opportunity to own one of his exclusive designs, now available at Neiman Marcus.
For designers and brands looking to tell their own stories through fashion, whether it’s through photoshoot collaborations or runway coverage, I’m passionate about capturing the essence of your vision. Highlighting a Bach Mai design in Bali was a powerful reminder of how photography can bring a brand’s story to life. Let’s work together to create something extraordinary and share your vision through the art of photography.
© Paul Tocatlian. All Rights Reserved.
Kisau Photography 