BACH MAI
SPRING/SUMMER 2026
CFDA NYFW
FEATURING
Bucherer Fine Jewellery
Aveda
O’Faolain
RéVive
Commando
Pattie Yankee
SPECIAL THANKS
Genesis House
Bach Mai’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection at New York Fashion Week feels like a reflection on American glamour. It is lived-in and powerful in its contrasts. Masculine and feminine. Rough and refined. Bold and understated.
This season reimagines glamour as something alive, an experience to be felt as much as seen. I’m deeply grateful for the chance to witness and capture it. Thank you, Bach, for the inspiration.
Inside Bach Mai NYFW SS26: Backstage at Genesis House
Backstage always tells its own story. The sound of heels on concrete, the rustle of fabric, voices moving in and out of focus. I watched as models waited in stillness, stylists rushed in with final touches, and the room carried a calm energy that held steady and grounded everyone present.
Once the models were ready, they moved to have their photos taken, and I captured a few behind-the-scene shots that revealed glimpses of personality between poses.
A model easing into laughter after holding her pose. Another standing tall in a corset and wide trousers, shadowed by a flash of neon yellow. Polka dots and checks coming alive against stark concrete walls.
And in the midst of it all, a shadow of Bach Mai himself. His presence felt even when he wasn’t in the light.
Rehearsal Notes
At rehearsal, I kept returning to the small things. A gown in soft sand and gray curved around the body as if it had been sculpted. Striped shirting fell with ease beside oversized coats. Models lined up with bags in hand, their quiet focus setting the rhythm of the room. The gradient silks shimmered like water, coats cut with precision sliced the air as they moved, and even in rehearsal, Bach Mai’s presence came through. Walking the floor, adjusting, smiling, shaping the story before the runway began.
Bach Mai’s work thrives in these contrasts. Precision meeting freedom. Structure softening into ease. And always, the return of color. I remembered his father’s question, “Where is all the color?” In the
Spring/Summer 2025 Collection it arrived as resilience. In the Spring/Summer 2026 Collection, it arrived as expansion.
Bolder, louder, and full of possibility.
Bach Mai SS26 Runway at NYFW: American Glamour in Motion
When the runway came alive, the clothes became motion. The setting added to the story. There was a surprising intimacy in how the runway was arranged, almost like little salons gathered inside a larger hall. It contrasted with the concrete of Genesis House, yet it felt perfect. An unlikely harmony that made the collection even more powerful. Much like the contradictions within the collection itself, these tensions made the story even richer.
Every piece carried weight. Every silhouette a statement. Together they embodied what Bach Mai calls “American glamour,” but it felt like something larger. A dialogue between past and present, Paris couture discipline and New York freedom.
Media Coverage
Bach Mai’s SS26 show at NYFW received wide coverage across leading fashion outlets, each highlighting the bold creativity and emotional depth of his latest collection. Fashion Network captured the energy of the Sunday runway alongside other standout designers. Kendam offered a detailed breakdown of the show, emphasizing Mai’s craftsmanship and unique storytelling. NOWFASHION.com provided a comprehensive visual showcase of every look from the collection. Vogue Runway published an in-depth review situating Bach Mai among today’s most exciting voices in American fashion. And WWD featured a photo gallery spotlighting the collection’s standout pieces and runway moments. Together, these perspectives reflect the growing acclaim for Bach Mai’s evolving vision.
The Looklist
- Dissolving Glen Plaid Peak Lapel Overcoat paired with Faded Celadon Silk Georgette Mini Áo Dài Slip Dress, a reinterpretation of classic tailoring softened with fluidity.
- Cream Silk Organza Veiled Sequin Double Breasted Peak Lapel Tailored Jacket combined with Cream Sequin Track Short, balancing formality and play.
- Satin Laced Bustier with Faded Kimono Whisper Drape alongside Wool Glen Plaid Trouser with Revealed Chartreuse Lining Stripe, a fusion of structure and softness.
- Jumbo Dot Warp-Printed Taffeta Oversized Lab Coat layered over Faded Peony Silk Georgette Mini Áo Dài Slip Dress, playful pattern meets delicate layering.
- Faded Ocean Silk Georgette Áo Dài Slip Dress flowing with serene simplicity.
- Celadon Tie-Back Oversized Lab Coat paired with Celadon Satin Track Short, architectural ease in monochrome.
- Teal Striped Cotton Oxford Shirt Dress, casual precision.
- Wisteria Striped Cotton Oxford Fitted Shirt Dress, sharp and modern.
- Wisteria Washed Parachute Taffeta Pleated Shirt Dress, light volume with refined movement.
- Wool Glen Plaid Peak Lapel Overcoat with Revealed Celadon Lining, styled with Faded Wisteria Silk Georgette Mini Áo Dài Slip Dress, tailored contrast.
- Black Lurex Faille Double Breasted Peak Lapel Tailored Jacket worn with Black Satin Bias Skirt, dramatic texture and sheen.
- Grey Wool Houndstooth Volant Gown with Revealed Crinoline Underskirt, grandeur in reimagined heritage.
- Citrine Satin Tie-Back Opera Coat over Satin Laced Bustier with Wool Glen Plaid Trouser, strength and sparkle entwined.
- Dissolving Wool Glen Plaid Bustier Gown with Corset Lacing, tradition unraveled into fantasy.
- Technical Plaid Tie-Back Oversized Lab Coat combined with Jumbo Glen Plaid Velvet Jacquard Áo Dài Slip Dress, tactile depth and layering.
- Wool Glen Plaid Deconstructed Bias Dress, fluid tailoring reassembled.
- Wisteria Washed Parachute Taffeta Kimono Dress paired with Organic Polka Dot Mikado Strapless Mini Volant Dress, a dialogue between cultures and forms.
- Chartreuse Gossamer Mohair Sweater with Wisteria Satin Bias Skirt, bold hue with luminous flow.
- Charcoal Washed Parachute Taffeta Kimono Overcoat over Organic Polka Dot Mikado Volant Bustle Gown, scale and drama combined.
- Wool Glen Plaid Peak Lapel Overcoat with Transposed Circles worn with Satin Bustier Pleated Ombre Tulle Gown with Revealed Crinoline Underskirt, architecture meets movement.
- Celadon Silk Organza Strapless Gown, delicate lightness suspended.
- Organic Polka Dot Mikado Strapless Tiered Flounce Gown, playful grandeur.
- Jumbo Dot Warp-Printed Taffeta Draped Off-the-Shoulder Gown with Train, exuberant sweep.
- Black Satin Sculpted Gown with Revealed Underdress, elegant finale of bold form.
Who Is Bach Mai?
Bach Mai’s path has always been about contrast.
Born in Houston to Vietnamese parents, he first studied form and discipline as an apprentice with the Houston Ballet. That early precision translated into his approach to fabric. He later trained at Parsons School of Design in New York, where he was nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year, before moving to Paris to complete a master’s degree at Institut Français de la Mode.
His career carried him through Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, and Prabal Gurung. And then Maison Margiela, under John Galliano, where he served as First Design Assistant on the Artisanal Haute Couture collections. Here he absorbed couture’s deepest lessons.
He launched his namesake label in 2021, emerging as a voice of bold American couture. His SS25 collection, Invincible Summer, was deeply personal. It asked where color could be found again.
The Bach Mai SS26 collection answers that question. With expansion, courage, and brilliance.
The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, established in 2001 to support emerging designers and cultivate the next generation of American fashion talent, announced its 2025 finalists on June 3rd. Bach Mai is among the designers recognized this year, celebrated for evoking irreverent glamour through bold, vibrant creations. This recognition comes on the heels of his standout Spring/Summer 2025 presentation at New York Fashion Week, where his work further cemented his place as a rising voice in American fashion.
Explore more of Bach Mai’s work by browsing his collections on Vogue Runway.
Behind Bach Mai’s NYFW SS26: The Team and Sponsors
Fashion shows are never the work of one person. They are collective acts of creation.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and New York Fashion Week (NYFW) organizers made space for Bach Mai’s vision at Genesis House.
Sponsors and collaborators ensured that the details moved seamlessly. Stylists, hair and makeup teams, and technical crews worked quietly, yet their fingerprints were on every moment.
It takes an invisible army to bring a runway into being. SS26 was proof of that invisible labor.
Bucherer Fine Jewellery. Swiss jeweler since 1888, celebrated for precision and craftsmanship, producing timeless collections with rare diamonds and gemstones that elevate every ensemble.
Aveda. Global pioneer in sustainable, plant-based beauty. Since 1978, Aveda has set the standard in holistic care and remains an essential backstage presence for fashion shows worldwide.
O’Faolain (by Bryant Phelan). Handcrafted luxury leather brand creating sculptural, distinctive bags rooted in Southern heritage and modern artistry. Each piece is a statement of individuality.
RéVive. Skincare house founded by Dr. Gregory Bays Brown, delivering clinically proven, science-based formulas that renew and revitalize skin for enduring radiance.
Commando. Founded in 2003 by Kerry O’Brien, Commando is known for innovative intimates and ready-to-wear that combine comfort, sleek design, and confidence.
Genesis House. A cultural space by Genesis in NYC that unites fine dining, design, and art in an environment for collaboration and innovation.
The Team
Styling by Emily Evans. NY-based stylist recognized for balancing refinement and modernity across editorial, runway, and advertising.
Nails by Yankee & Teamypp for Pattie Yankee Products. Nail artistry collective led by Pattie Yankee, known for bold and creative work at fashion weeks and editorial shoots, advancing professional standards.
Casting by Eli Romanova, Founder of Fox Creatives, a casting director who champions inclusivity and diversity while curating compelling lineups for runways and campaigns.
Hair by Britt Dion for Aveda. Aveda Artistic Director for North America, acclaimed for leading backstage teams and pioneering sustainable approaches to hairstyling at major shows.
Skin by Marcello Costa. Celebrity makeup artist who brings luminous, skin-first aesthetics to runway and editorial work, enhancing individuality with precision.
Movement by Haus of Bambi. Performance collective directed by Robert Woofter, blending dance, theater, and fashion for striking runway choreography and avant-garde expression.
Visuals by Amber Gray Studio. Photographer and filmmaker delivering surreal, cinematic visuals that redefine fashion storytelling with imaginative edge.
Art Direction by Morgan Baldwin. Art director and illustrator who creates cohesive brand narratives across runway, campaigns, and editorial projects with an eye for bold aesthetics.
Public Relations by Patrick McGregor. PR consultant and founder of KP McGregor Consulting, amplifying designer voices and securing global recognition for fashion houses.
Production by Lynne O’Neill. Legendary fashion show producer known as the “Show Doctor,” with decades of experience delivering seamless, theatrical runway productions for leading designers.
Bach Mai Across Continents: From NYFW to the Global Stage
On a personal note, capturing Bach Mai’s designs did not begin at Genesis House. It has been unfolding across time and place.
I first wrote about his NYFW SS25 story in “Invincible Summer” and later explored the ecosystem that makes this work possible with the CFDA and Genesis House supporting the future of fashion.
Beyond the runway, I had the opportunity to capture two of his designs on location photoshoots.
In Bali, Pinky Mutiara brought a Bach Mai design to life at Casa Nomada.
In Melbourne, Hridita became a portrait of elegance and expression. And the circle widened again in Melbourne with Elasha Chhantyal.
Mei Li captivated Seoul with Bach Mai’s timeless fashion.
In Paris, an editorial with Meera X Jiao featured Bach Mai at Le Père Lachaise Cemetery.
Closer to home, the Bay Area became a stage of its own featuring Hannah Do.
These are the threads. Articles and images in conversation with each other. Runway to street, studio to city, New York to everywhere.
If you are a brand, designer, model, or creative looking to craft compelling visual stories, I would love to collaborate with you. Let’s bring your vision to life, whether through editorial shoots or runway coverage.
© Paul Tocatlian. All Rights Reserved.
Kisau Photography 